An often misunderstood component of the male wardrobe, as far as 'high street' fashion is concerned, most men's jacket have a terrible shape and do nothing to create the silhouette they should.
A suit jacket, sport coat, blazer, whichever terminology you want to use should follow a couple of simple rules:
- The seam of the shoulder should follow the natural line of your own shoulder, this will stop the neck and lapel sitting forwards/backwards or not lying flat to your chest.
- Steer clear of slim lapels, unless you're rakishly thin go for something wider than and inch and and a half.
- Always go for something with two vents at the rear, a much more flattering cut and more accommodating of both casual and formal looks.
- The seat of the jacket should not sit higher or lower than the bottom of your buttocks.
- Two button or single button single breasted jackets, or six button double breasted jackets.
Once you've got something that your comfortable with take it along to your tailor and get it altered. The sleeves should sit on the protruding bone at your wrist, it's also likely that to better the profile of the jacket you should have the sleeves narrowed to stop the gathering around the shoulders and elbows when moving around.
If you're in need of some inspiration Suit Supply is probably the best affordable, stylish, suitors I know of. They always have a great range of suits and as well as the staples black, navy, grey they have a fantastic mix of textures and patterns to play with. The dutch are as well versed in sartorial prowess as any and these guys have taken the market for low cost on trend suiting by storm.
To complete the repertoire they do alterations on site and you can order online to pick up in-store. Hassle. Free.
Danke!
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