Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part I)

When thinking of British tailoring it's easy to immediately focus your attentions on Savile Row, in fact, your hard pressed to think of an alternative. It's probably why for most of us, on what is the modern equivalent of a working class wage, the possibility of experiencing those upper echelons of tradition seem so unattainable.

There was a time however not too long ago, maybe only 2 generations, when all men regardless of class, creed or belief would have his Sunday best. A 'best' pair of shoes, a 'best' shirt, a 'best' suit and a 'best' overcoat and these would be that man's Sunday uniform, when the family would gather together for dinner, tea and merriment or most likely squabble.

In days of yore this gent would typically visit big menswear retailers such as Dunn & Co. or Simpson's of Piccadilly. These retailers would work with high end clothiers like Crombie, Hardy Amies and DAKS to produce lines for their stores giving the customer high quality cloths at affordable prices. The item would be made ready to wear and retailers would then offer the benefit of alterations to induce a better fit. This is not a bespoke service nor made to measure but the important part of the process was the service itself and that the customer would be getting the benefit of fabrics that previously were reserved for those better off.

Department stores eventually moved away from this business model, but more recently have vested renewed interest in this type of service. Collaborations such as Patrick Grant's with Debenhams on the Hammond & Co. line and Marks and Spencer's Best of British collection are harking back to a more refined period in our sartorial history.

Men are taking more pride in their appearance and overall the interest in dressing well is heightened. Tailoring is the winner here because of its obvious masculinity and dandyish air. However not all good tailors are located on the Row. In fact you might argue that some tailors on the Row have to charge for their address.

London is commonly regarded as the menswear capital of the world and there are many fine purveyors of British tailoring all over the capital, areas like Piccadilly are well stocked with outfitters for the well-dressed gent. Tailors and coatmakers also fill Dickensian back streets of the Square Mile around the City.

Graham Browne established their trade off Bow Lane, EC4 in 1968 and the exciting thing about this tailor is that they are not bound by the constraints of Savile Row. For all its excellence and high culture the Row is conformist, and each tailor has a favoured cut or style, and so each is revered for that aesthetic. Graham Browne conversely is relatively young in its tailoring inspiration and as such has many newer and wider influences which help to create an extremely varied bespoke experience.

When deciding to take the bespoke plunge, as it were, your main concern may be the commonly misconstrued conformity of it all. Like when you go to the barbers and ask for a crew cut but walk out with what he thinks would suit you better. From your very first meeting with head cutters Russell and Dan, you'll feel safe in the knowledge that they appreciate your concerns and that they pride themselves on adapting their talents to best suit the client not their own ideals. To blindly ignore advice would be foolish but it's comforting to know that you're in complete control and that your tailor understands your requirements.

Your first appointment allows you to discuss your design and fit and browse the wonderful fabrics and extensive pattern and colour combinations you can apply. Once you're decided your measurements are taken and the pattern cutting process is ready to begin.

Part II