Monday, 16 September 2013

Ways to Wear: Oxfords

At the beginning of last month I was contacted by Samuel Windsor and introduced to their Blog Network, which lists the best menswear blogs on the web, moreover aims to compile all these guides in to handy directory for your delectation.

You've probably come across Sam Windsor on your travels and if not I can only assume it's because you don't work in an office and are not privy to their alleviation of strain on a bank balance dented by the expense of new shoes every 6 months. For a long time these guys have been offering affordable footwear to those who have searched and found. My first experience with the brand was a fair few years ago, possibly 2009, when I invested in a pair of dark brown suede chukka boots to kick start a more classically inspired shoe collection due to my developing tastes. Since then I spread the news to various family members and friends who have since gone on to make their own purchases.

The chukka boots are still going strong, if you're interested, and half my old man's wardrobe is now down to Samuel Windsor. Creatures of habit!

I started conversing with Dan at SW discussing ideas for the blog network and a contribution towards their social media footprint. My first inclination was a guide to making the most of your shoes, focusing on the versatility of certain styles. I then dug deeper and since the influence of the #menswear movement I think most people are aware of brogues and loafers and how they are just as at home at the bottom of a tapered suit trouser leg as they are neath a turned selvedge denim hem. I wanted to turn our attentions to a more overlooked style and I settled on plain oxfords.

Oxford's are typically characterised by eyelets sewn under the vamp (the part of the shoe starting behind the toes extending to the back of the foot) and a cap-toe. This is to say they are not a wholecut or derby. Although brogues are a derivative of this style it is the traditional arrangement, that we recognise as an oxford shoe today, that my collective wisdom is aimed at.

My view is that we mostly see these as a particularly straight-laced shoe for business and very formal dress, however you may be surprised to hear that this shoe was born out of rebellion by students at Oxford university in the 1800's against knee and ankle high boots. The veritable punk of modern footwear!

There's no questioning the simplicity of the cut and pairing a black cap-toe oxford with a clean cut navy or grey suit is a winner every time, but if you want to vary the occasion of these staples why not try introducing some tailored khaki or military green cotton trousers, a plain white t-shirt and bomber or denim jacket. The key to taking these shoes out of their formal setting for me is the trousers, stick to a composition with a crease and tailored aesthetic and you will find them just a suitable for a more casual setting. Steer clear of blazer's and suit jackets up top and take inspiration from 1940's service dress. Below are a few examples I've pick out from the net to show just how versatile these shoes can be:






In retrospect of this guide one lucky reader will become the owner of a classic pair of black oxfords kindly provided by the good people at Samuel Windsor. To be in with a chance all you have to do is subscribe to esteewhyele.blogspot.co.uk via the handy widget at the top right hand margin of the screen and follow @esteewhyele and @samuelwindsor on Twitter. Tweet us #STYLExSW when you're done and you'll be entered in to the draw at the end of the month.

A winner will be picked at random from the entrants on the 30th September and contacted to make arrangements for the delivery of their prize.

Good luck!

Photo Source: TheSartorialistTumblr & Tommy Ton via GQ via IQ Menswear

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