Engineered Garments SS14

Engineered Garments is another Daiki Suzuki vehicle. Established in the late 90's the label is Suzuki's main production and the creative outlet for his designs.

Unlike Woolrich Wollen Mills, here he has the freedom to establish his own quirks. The designs are set to add simple tweeks to well established vintage sportswear and hunting silhouettes making them modern and adaptable to today's uses.

Below are the coming summers offerings with some interesting patterns and some nice indigo washes.

Photo Source: Men's Reverie

Nanamica x Clarks

Collaborative partnerships are driving the menswear market and many British brands are directly benefiting from the current trend.

Wallabees have been a staple of Clarks productions since the early 1960's, developed from a traditional moccasin they are a familiar silhouette instantly recognisable. Whilst their classic design has never completely fallen out of favour now (thanks to Walter White's character in Breaking Bad), like with the Hip-Hop generation of the nineties (thanks in most part to Ghostface Killah), they are enjoying a bit of a revival.

This effort in partnership with Nanamica is Gore-Tex re-enforced in the areas that typically see the most wear to ensure a long lease of life and sports a red brick Vibram sole for comfort:

Photo Source: Hypebeast & Wellgosh

Duffer Japan Launch @ Anthem

Back in 1989, what started as a vintage stall in Camden, London selling deadstock and army surplus 5 years previous had transformed into a West End retailer specialising in the reproduction of the surplus items they had began their journey with.

Trawling the US for coveted vintage pieces the brand move from strength to strength and a successful decade in the UK was twinned with huge success in Japan, where the brand set up their heritage label.

Now, for the first time, Duffer Japan will be available in the UK. Their SS14 range will be stocked at selected stores across the UK and Europe, and Anthem are one of the privileged few.

Inspired by American sportswear and the surf, a few weeks back I had the chance to preview the summer collection up close at an event held at the Anthem shop in Shoreditch.

A big thank you to Anthem & Duffer Japan.

Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part III)

Foward Fitting

Every visit to GB's shop in the eastern quarter of central London brings with it a greater understanding of your own stature and stance and the daunting realisation that the majority of the clothes in your wardrobe don't fit you all that well after all. However the rapor that Dan and Russell have with clients is comforting and whether this is your first bespoke experience or otherwise the help and advice received whilst making decisions is impeccable.

At the forward fitting the garment is almost as it will be when finished, in terms of the fit and form it is largely complete with the fabric now cut and the patterns sewn, the latter stages of the process are in effect. It is at this point that the smaller adjustments can be made to the final piece to ensure the best possible fit.

During the fitting focus is on details like the length of the arms and the fitting of the jacket at the waist, altered by slight adjustments to the centre-back and side seams. For trouser fitting, your options range from a more traditional composition with two pleats to a more contemporary flat fronted example with no pleats. This is the point at which nips and tucks can be made at the seat and the taper of the leg, and/or for the addition of turn-ups to give weight to the material and hold the crease in the leg of the pant. You will also have the decision of whether to add side adjusters if preferred to relinquish the need for a belt. These finer details are all based on personal preference and the aesthetic you wish to achieve in the finish garment, be it a slimmer/tailored fit close to the body, a more relaxed fit or a contemporary modern style.

Once these final adjustments are procured it is on to the final fitting.

Part I
Part II

Nanamica SS14

More Tokyo based stylistics now with the new Spring/Summer drop from Nanamica.

As I have said countless times on here, I just can't help but be amazed by all and sundry coming out of the Eastern Continent at the moment. The tailoring is a little more relaxed drawing inspiration from the chore and workwear styles of the early 1900's with just the right amount of modernity applied. Similarly their outerwear is simple but well designed and with the application of a vibrant colour here and re-imagined pattern there it's brought bang up to date.

Recent collaboration's with Clark's shoes on a classic 'Wallabee' style and their involvement in The North Face's Purple Label have brought the brand to the fore and I'm sure we'll see a lot more stockists in the UK as they grow in popularity.

You can pick up the new collection at END. here.

Photo Source: Men's Reverie

Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part II)

The Baste

On the second visit to Graham Browne, with colour palette, cloth and composition discussed with fervor the baste can begin. It's in this refined procedure that the subtle nuances of bespoke can really be appreciated.

When buying off the peg, even made to measure, the garment will always be to a formulaic template, assuming that this will be suited to the majority of it's consumers. However, the discretion that can be applied when going bespoke at somewhere like Graham Browne is endless. From the height and cut of the arm holes to the slope of the shoulder, the width of the lapel to the composition of buttons on a double breasted coat or jacket, working cuffs and side adjusters for your trousers. These details which are lost in the mass market are applied to show a competent craft.

Again, it is GB's nonconformist attitude which really warrants a championing here. The house cut for a tailors will typically dominate, at very least, to some extent the look of your garment and it's easy to understand why when specific styles like Huntsman's single button or Anderson & Sheppard's peak lapels are so revered. It would be simpler to cut a dash in a bid to garner a cult following, however at GB the commitment is to the client and giving them exactly what they want, a truly bespoke experience.

For the baste fitting you move from a series of flat panel cloths to build up a prototype of your garment. Once the pattern is cut and struck it is passed to the coat maker to make a baste for the first fitting. The baste is a process of temporarily sewing the panels together loosely so as to create the basic form. This paper panel composition now allows for any adjustments. Adjustments to the major structure of the garment can now be finalised, fittings like the chest canvas and shoulders can be tweaked into place and prepared for final procurement.

For future fittings these paper patterns are kept in the records at GB.

Part I

Salvatore Piccolo @ Pitti85

Salvatore Piccolo is the embodiment of our interpretations of Neapolitan style, casual tailoring and unstructured compositions for the warm weather of the Italian south coast.

For the winter period they retain their relaxed aesthetic but with slightly heavier fabrics, tweeds, wool and heavy gauge cottons to beat the falling temperatures.

At Pitti in January this is what the Napoli based menswear company had to offer:

Photo Source: Men's Reverie