Monday 29 October 2012

Macs on Macs on Macs on Macs

Layering is perfect for the Autumn/Winter transition in cooler climes, as the weather turns and sight of the sun becomes less and less likely it can be difficult to decide what to leave the house in.

Great big coats aren't always practical and riding the tube and other public transport which are almost always overcrowded can be akin to stepping into a sauna, your arctic parka suddenly begins to cook you from the inside and you arrive at your destination in a cold dank sweat, nice.

Layering lighter jackets is a way of keeping warm without overcompensating.

A denim jacket is a versatile piece of kit and thicker gauge check shirts are a good layer over a lighter shirt or t-shirt.

Wool overcoats work well with denim and on a smarter occasion they sit perfectly over a shirt and jumper.

Military style jackets are also a good accompaniment for denim and if your buying second hand military garb it's not often that you get a perfect fit, layering underneath can fill out the silhouette and create a much more complimentary figure.




Saturday 27 October 2012

Gem's

Not of the precious kind but valuable all the same.

I'm constantly surprised at how often, living in such a vast cityscape as London it probably shouldn't be such, I stumble upon something literally amongst my immediate surroundings which until that moment had gone completely unnoticed.

I've not got the best eyesight and I'd much rather wear glasses over contact lenses, just don't fancy sticking that filmy lens in my eye.

The opticians is trivial at the best of times, especially the national franchises that line high street's and shopping destinations. I also find that the majority of modern frames stocked offer about as much variation as a Drum & Bass DJ line-up. The multitude of narrow oblong lens frames is mind numbing and what's even harder to swallow is the price they want to charge you for the pleasure of making everyone look the same, so unless you go for designer frames which typically end up setting you back the same as a very good pair of shoes (I know were I'd rather spend the money), you're buggered.

So when I sat on the glasses, I'd had since the age of 16, whilst on a night in the pub I was dreading the impact on my wallet and my credibilty.

Whilst I was out for a run the following day something caught my eye and there it was, the answer to my problem.

Charles Frydman my optician now for over a year has been in the same shop for years, probably more years than I have amassed in my life, and those years of experience are a breath of fresh air in a stagnent market.

He has a great range of retro frames thick plastic and more delicate metal frames too and at a snip of the price of anything else I've come across.

He also works with a frame makers Anglo American Optical and can order specific frames if there's nothing for you in store.

I often get comments about my fames, which are as sturdy today as they were a year ago when I first got them. A great service and always good to help the independent businesses as a consumer.

Here's hoping Charles is in that shop for a long time to come.








Thursday 18 October 2012

Blazer Trail

An often misunderstood component of the male wardrobe, as far as 'high street' fashion is concerned, most men's jacket have a terrible shape and do nothing to create the silhouette they should.

A suit jacket, sport coat, blazer, whichever terminology you want to use should follow a couple of simple rules:
  • The seam of the shoulder should follow the natural line of your own shoulder, this will stop the neck and lapel sitting forwards/backwards or not lying flat to your chest.
  • Steer clear of slim lapels, unless you're rakishly thin go for something wider than and inch and and a half.
  • Always go for something with two vents at the rear, a much more flattering cut and more accommodating of both casual and formal looks.
  • The seat of the jacket should not sit higher or lower than the bottom of your buttocks.
  • Two button or single button single breasted jackets, or six button double breasted jackets.

Once you've got something that your comfortable with take it along to your tailor and get it altered. The sleeves should sit on the protruding bone at your wrist, it's also likely that to better the profile of the jacket you should have the sleeves narrowed to stop the gathering around the shoulders and elbows when moving around.

If you're in need of some inspiration Suit Supply is probably the best affordable, stylish, suitors I know of. They always have a great range of suits and as well as the staples black, navy, grey they have a fantastic mix of textures and patterns to play with. The dutch are as well versed in sartorial prowess as any and these guys have taken the market for low cost on trend suiting by storm.

To complete the repertoire they do alterations on site and you can order online to pick up in-store. Hassle. Free.

Danke!




Wednesday 10 October 2012

SLACK(er)S

Break or no break? - That is the question

When it comes to the lower half of your composition personal preference in fit is left to the 'sartorialist' in us all.

Personally I'm not keen on my trouser leg and my shoes ever meeting so I have them altered, tapered usually to 6 and 3 quarter or 7 inches in width, and a centimetre or so above the top of my shoe. Obviously this is not to everyones taste but it does give you a chance to show another element of your outfit, a flash of flesh or sock maybe.

'Baggy trousers' is a song by Madness and should be nothing but. The shape of your legs and feet should be accentuated, tapered legs (not skinny fit) give a more appealing silhouette.

Apply the same rules to your jeans, take them to your tailor. You can not expect denim to fit 'off the peg' and if you're going to invest in a snazzy pair of shoes, the last thing you want is them hidden away by a bootcut flare.

For me these cargo trousers in dark grey are the best way of going for something a little less straight up and down than chino's or jeans.

I get the impression that most people under 40 are afraid of the word trousers because of they can only think of them in a formal sense. Displacing the myth can be achieved by experimenting with textures, wools and linens if tailored to fit are a good way to break up the monotony of chino's/cotton pants and jeans.

Don't get me wrong they're by no means a lesser accoutrement its just nice to have something else hanging in the wardrobe.

Friday 5 October 2012

The Same but Different

Staying on trend has never been easier and high street stores are now mimicking designer fashions faster than ever, even collaborating with popular designers to create affordable collections with the same aesthetics.


A great example is the latest GAP campaign bringing on board a quartet of young American menswear designers, not least because they have picked up two leaders of current trends in Mark McNairy and Todd Snyder.


It's good to see affordable design and after H&M's various collaborations on its womenswear range over the last few years it's about time us men got a share of the spoils. The collection has just been released in the UK and you can get it here.

The wool camouflage cargo trousers are perfect, just the right amount of smart but with a modern twist. Mark McNairy has this M.O. down to a 't' and his footwear collection further demonstrates these sentiments, his take on classics such as the brogue and double monk shoes with 'Vibram' or crepe soles revive classic designs.

There's an air of practicality to these designs too being that leather soles tend to wear easily and don't handle water/rain well, certainly not on the scale that we Brits get it in any case, these shoes transcend the seasonal pitfalls of most and give you much more wear.


Todd Snyder's collection is not too dissimilar and he has his own take on a cargo pant, as well as incorporating some camouflage by way of a simple tee. My pick of his collaborations however is the cadet parka, its a well established stalwart of the male wardrobe and weather wise it's got you covered in pretty much every eventuality. Thanks to the popularity of mod culture you can just as easily drop a parka with your suit as you can casually with a pair of jeans.

Get your hands on one of these gems if you can...







From the Ground Up!

Shoes are the best place to start, especially for men, choices are limited and knowledge is king. Unfortunately this is a department in which you will need to speculate to accumulate, good shoes come at a price, but with the right information you can pick up a pair of creepers that will last you a lifetime.

'You can tell a lot about a man by his shoes' it's true, not based on cost but on condition and how well kept they are, look after your shoes and the rest of your outfit will look after itself.

Whilst we're talking about care, a good pair of shoe trees is a maligned commodity. If you want to keep your shoes looking their best socks, hangers and all those other stop gaps will only do so much.

It's also a good idea to avoid wearing leather shoes two days in a row when possible, this respite gives the leather time to breathe and take the shape of your feet.

If you want something that will look good with almost anything you could do far worse than a nice pair of brogues.

Churches is the pinnacle of the brogue tree in my eyes, but Loake are a brilliant alternative and they have a range varying in price based on the grade of finish so you can budget accordingly. The Sovereign are a long wing brogue with a rubber, welted sole so they'll hold up come rain or shine.

Brogues go great with suits for a refined gent's look or with cargo pants and a good knitted jumper for a more preppy casual look.

If you want to push the boat out and go for something a bit more 'high shine' Grenson are an old British heritage brand that have recently been taken on by Tim Little. The Sid in burgundy is a bit of a show stopper and the contrasting soles will draw attention.


Thursday 4 October 2012

The Makings of a Modern Man

Quite simply I have started this blog to impart (where possible) what little knowledge I may possess. To draw attention to style for men be it casual or formal, smart or relaxed, as, despite comments to the contrary, 'the clothes' most certainly do 'maketh the man'.

My intention is that this may act as a guide for those who need somewhere else to look for advice on what to wear and how. I'll also be looking at where to go for quality that's affordable.

Any submission's of your own tips or outfits are gratefully received, as are your views on each post.

From what I can see there's little on offer for men as far as style blog's are concerned, and what is out there is aimed mostly at what I would consider formal appearance.

My consideration is wider spread, being well turned out is not always about a blazer and a pair of trousers. There's a stark contrast between a good dress sense and someone who has developed their own style.

To look well in more relaxed attire it's all about 'fit', the cut of the cloth so to speak, so, first things first... a TAILOR. Get a recommendation where/if you can as a good tailors can be hard to find, but there's no need to head to Savile Row or the equivalent wherever you may be.

For me a tailor should be someone you see regularly, you should have a strong rapor after all he's the one who'll make you look the part.

With that I'll begin...