Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part III)

Foward Fitting

Every visit to GB's shop in the eastern quarter of central London brings with it a greater understanding of your own stature and stance and the daunting realisation that the majority of the clothes in your wardrobe don't fit you all that well after all. However the rapor that Dan and Russell have with clients is comforting and whether this is your first bespoke experience or otherwise the help and advice received whilst making decisions is impeccable.

At the forward fitting the garment is almost as it will be when finished, in terms of the fit and form it is largely complete with the fabric now cut and the patterns sewn, the latter stages of the process are in effect. It is at this point that the smaller adjustments can be made to the final piece to ensure the best possible fit.

During the fitting focus is on details like the length of the arms and the fitting of the jacket at the waist, altered by slight adjustments to the centre-back and side seams. For trouser fitting, your options range from a more traditional composition with two pleats to a more contemporary flat fronted example with no pleats. This is the point at which nips and tucks can be made at the seat and the taper of the leg, and/or for the addition of turn-ups to give weight to the material and hold the crease in the leg of the pant. You will also have the decision of whether to add side adjusters if preferred to relinquish the need for a belt. These finer details are all based on personal preference and the aesthetic you wish to achieve in the finish garment, be it a slimmer/tailored fit close to the body, a more relaxed fit or a contemporary modern style.

Once these final adjustments are procured it is on to the final fitting.

Part I
Part II