Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part III)

Foward Fitting

Every visit to GB's shop in the eastern quarter of central London brings with it a greater understanding of your own stature and stance and the daunting realisation that the majority of the clothes in your wardrobe don't fit you all that well after all. However the rapor that Dan and Russell have with clients is comforting and whether this is your first bespoke experience or otherwise the help and advice received whilst making decisions is impeccable.

At the forward fitting the garment is almost as it will be when finished, in terms of the fit and form it is largely complete with the fabric now cut and the patterns sewn, the latter stages of the process are in effect. It is at this point that the smaller adjustments can be made to the final piece to ensure the best possible fit.

During the fitting focus is on details like the length of the arms and the fitting of the jacket at the waist, altered by slight adjustments to the centre-back and side seams. For trouser fitting, your options range from a more traditional composition with two pleats to a more contemporary flat fronted example with no pleats. This is the point at which nips and tucks can be made at the seat and the taper of the leg, and/or for the addition of turn-ups to give weight to the material and hold the crease in the leg of the pant. You will also have the decision of whether to add side adjusters if preferred to relinquish the need for a belt. These finer details are all based on personal preference and the aesthetic you wish to achieve in the finish garment, be it a slimmer/tailored fit close to the body, a more relaxed fit or a contemporary modern style.

Once these final adjustments are procured it is on to the final fitting.

Part I
Part II

Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part II)

The Baste

On the second visit to Graham Browne, with colour palette, cloth and composition discussed with fervor the baste can begin. It's in this refined procedure that the subtle nuances of bespoke can really be appreciated.

When buying off the peg, even made to measure, the garment will always be to a formulaic template, assuming that this will be suited to the majority of it's consumers. However, the discretion that can be applied when going bespoke at somewhere like Graham Browne is endless. From the height and cut of the arm holes to the slope of the shoulder, the width of the lapel to the composition of buttons on a double breasted coat or jacket, working cuffs and side adjusters for your trousers. These details which are lost in the mass market are applied to show a competent craft.

Again, it is GB's nonconformist attitude which really warrants a championing here. The house cut for a tailors will typically dominate, at very least, to some extent the look of your garment and it's easy to understand why when specific styles like Huntsman's single button or Anderson & Sheppard's peak lapels are so revered. It would be simpler to cut a dash in a bid to garner a cult following, however at GB the commitment is to the client and giving them exactly what they want, a truly bespoke experience.

For the baste fitting you move from a series of flat panel cloths to build up a prototype of your garment. Once the pattern is cut and struck it is passed to the coat maker to make a baste for the first fitting. The baste is a process of temporarily sewing the panels together loosely so as to create the basic form. This paper panel composition now allows for any adjustments. Adjustments to the major structure of the garment can now be finalised, fittings like the chest canvas and shoulders can be tweaked into place and prepared for final procurement.

For future fittings these paper patterns are kept in the records at GB.

Part I

Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part I)

When thinking of British tailoring it's easy to immediately focus your attentions on Savile Row, in fact, your hard pressed to think of an alternative. It's probably why for most of us, on what is the modern equivalent of a working class wage, the possibility of experiencing those upper echelons of tradition seem so unattainable.

There was a time however not too long ago, maybe only 2 generations, when all men regardless of class, creed or belief would have his Sunday best. A 'best' pair of shoes, a 'best' shirt, a 'best' suit and a 'best' overcoat and these would be that man's Sunday uniform, when the family would gather together for dinner, tea and merriment or most likely squabble.

In days of yore this gent would typically visit big menswear retailers such as Dunn & Co. or Simpson's of Piccadilly. These retailers would work with high end clothiers like Crombie, Hardy Amies and DAKS to produce lines for their stores giving the customer high quality cloths at affordable prices. The item would be made ready to wear and retailers would then offer the benefit of alterations to induce a better fit. This is not a bespoke service nor made to measure but the important part of the process was the service itself and that the customer would be getting the benefit of fabrics that previously were reserved for those better off.

Department stores eventually moved away from this business model, but more recently have vested renewed interest in this type of service. Collaborations such as Patrick Grant's with Debenhams on the Hammond & Co. line and Marks and Spencer's Best of British collection are harking back to a more refined period in our sartorial history.

Men are taking more pride in their appearance and overall the interest in dressing well is heightened. Tailoring is the winner here because of its obvious masculinity and dandyish air. However not all good tailors are located on the Row. In fact you might argue that some tailors on the Row have to charge for their address.

London is commonly regarded as the menswear capital of the world and there are many fine purveyors of British tailoring all over the capital, areas like Piccadilly are well stocked with outfitters for the well-dressed gent. Tailors and coatmakers also fill Dickensian back streets of the Square Mile around the City.

Graham Browne established their trade off Bow Lane, EC4 in 1968 and the exciting thing about this tailor is that they are not bound by the constraints of Savile Row. For all its excellence and high culture the Row is conformist, and each tailor has a favoured cut or style, and so each is revered for that aesthetic. Graham Browne conversely is relatively young in its tailoring inspiration and as such has many newer and wider influences which help to create an extremely varied bespoke experience.

When deciding to take the bespoke plunge, as it were, your main concern may be the commonly misconstrued conformity of it all. Like when you go to the barbers and ask for a crew cut but walk out with what he thinks would suit you better. From your very first meeting with head cutters Russell and Dan, you'll feel safe in the knowledge that they appreciate your concerns and that they pride themselves on adapting their talents to best suit the client not their own ideals. To blindly ignore advice would be foolish but it's comforting to know that you're in complete control and that your tailor understands your requirements.

Your first appointment allows you to discuss your design and fit and browse the wonderful fabrics and extensive pattern and colour combinations you can apply. Once you're decided your measurements are taken and the pattern cutting process is ready to begin.

Part II

Marks & Spencers: Best of British

All I seem to be doing at the moment is rambling on about British this that and the other, but it is a sign of our times. There is an inextricable shift towards being a more self sufficient country in terms of produce, better supporting our retailers for a more sustainable future and sustaining our historic mills and factories.

Tomorrow sees Marks and Spencers' bring their Best of British range to selected stores (Kensington and Marble Arch in London, Bluewater in Kent, Edinburgh and Camberley in Surrey) and online. This is a big push by a huge British retailer to promote home grown manufacturing.

The premium range, made entirely in the UK will include fabrics from Abraham Moon, Albert Brown, Holland & Sherry, Clissold, Todd & Duncan and a long standing partner Harris Tweed. 

They have also enlisted the help of Joseph Cheaney & Sons with the appropriate footwear to accompany the line.

A preview of the 40 piece range was on show at the London Collections: Men back in June and has captured the attention of the media and men's style magazines ever since. 

Hopefully this will be a continued project for M&S and we will see the range grow over the next few seasons.

Below are some of the best bits from the collection out tomorrow:

Photo Source: Marks and Spencer

Savile Row & St James's SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Richard James SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Gieves & Hawkes SS14 @ London Collections: Men