Duffer Japan Launch @ Anthem

Back in 1989, what started as a vintage stall in Camden, London selling deadstock and army surplus 5 years previous had transformed into a West End retailer specialising in the reproduction of the surplus items they had began their journey with.

Trawling the US for coveted vintage pieces the brand move from strength to strength and a successful decade in the UK was twinned with huge success in Japan, where the brand set up their heritage label.

Now, for the first time, Duffer Japan will be available in the UK. Their SS14 range will be stocked at selected stores across the UK and Europe, and Anthem are one of the privileged few.

Inspired by American sportswear and the surf, a few weeks back I had the chance to preview the summer collection up close at an event held at the Anthem shop in Shoreditch.

A big thank you to Anthem & Duffer Japan.

Graham Browne: A Bespoke Guide (Part III)

Foward Fitting

Every visit to GB's shop in the eastern quarter of central London brings with it a greater understanding of your own stature and stance and the daunting realisation that the majority of the clothes in your wardrobe don't fit you all that well after all. However the rapor that Dan and Russell have with clients is comforting and whether this is your first bespoke experience or otherwise the help and advice received whilst making decisions is impeccable.

At the forward fitting the garment is almost as it will be when finished, in terms of the fit and form it is largely complete with the fabric now cut and the patterns sewn, the latter stages of the process are in effect. It is at this point that the smaller adjustments can be made to the final piece to ensure the best possible fit.

During the fitting focus is on details like the length of the arms and the fitting of the jacket at the waist, altered by slight adjustments to the centre-back and side seams. For trouser fitting, your options range from a more traditional composition with two pleats to a more contemporary flat fronted example with no pleats. This is the point at which nips and tucks can be made at the seat and the taper of the leg, and/or for the addition of turn-ups to give weight to the material and hold the crease in the leg of the pant. You will also have the decision of whether to add side adjusters if preferred to relinquish the need for a belt. These finer details are all based on personal preference and the aesthetic you wish to achieve in the finish garment, be it a slimmer/tailored fit close to the body, a more relaxed fit or a contemporary modern style.

Once these final adjustments are procured it is on to the final fitting.

Part I
Part II

Nanamica SS14

More Tokyo based stylistics now with the new Spring/Summer drop from Nanamica.

As I have said countless times on here, I just can't help but be amazed by all and sundry coming out of the Eastern Continent at the moment. The tailoring is a little more relaxed drawing inspiration from the chore and workwear styles of the early 1900's with just the right amount of modernity applied. Similarly their outerwear is simple but well designed and with the application of a vibrant colour here and re-imagined pattern there it's brought bang up to date.

Recent collaboration's with Clark's shoes on a classic 'Wallabee' style and their involvement in The North Face's Purple Label have brought the brand to the fore and I'm sure we'll see a lot more stockists in the UK as they grow in popularity.

You can pick up the new collection at END. here.

Photo Source: Men's Reverie