Paul Costelloe SS14 @ LC:M: A Closer Look

Paul Costelloe is an Irish born designer who moved to London with his business in 1999, set up in 1979 in Dublin, after a vast training experience in both France and Italy, the brand was expanded in the 1990's and pitched up in London's Knightsbridge.

Fast forward to the second decade of the new millenia and the brand is taking a large step to attract a new customer, a younger gentleman with a discerning eye and a keen interest in the finer detail of his garments.

At the behest of Chase PR we were invited to take a look at Paul's SS14 collection which was viewing at the Hospital Club in Covent Garden for London Collections: Men.

We were given a tour and informed chat by Matthew Coles from Chase PR who was in the showroom to lend a hand.

As you can see from the photo reel there are bunch of subtle pastel shades on display in his jackets as well as more gentrified herringbones and windowpane checks. The composition is more relaxed with a slightly padded shoulder, 'spalla camicia' (shirt shoulders) and patch pocket details. The fabrics have an open weave and are only one third lined to keep the wearer cool and comfortable in warmer temperatures.

As well as the jackets you will find chambray shirts, a superb selection of cotton trousers with side tabs fastenings rather than belt loops, and a wonderful array of hand rolled silk handkerchiefs. The handkerchiefs are carefully considered floral and paisley prints, the floral prints often concentrated in one quarter to allow for some diverse pocket artistry.

We'd like to say thank you to for the invite and we're very much looking forward to seeing the collection in stores.

Big thank you also to Matthew too who has really caught on to what we are hoping to convey through the blog, he's also a keen sartorialist with a blog of his own Topgrain.co.uk and has just been to Pitti Uomo the menswear trade show. Take a gander at what he saw on his travels, very good reading and some brilliant photos.

Mr. Start & Mr. Hare SS14 @ LC:M: A Closer Look

First impressions count and a venue is just as important in reflecting the mood of whats on offer, for buyers and editors alike. The feel and front of a brand is what stays with you, what you associate with a label is how you determine in what context you consider that clothing.

Mr. Start & Mr. Hare converged on the House of St Barnabas a stunning Georgian townhouse on Soho Square to unveil their wares for SS14. The aesthetic was akin to a cocktail party which is a perfect simile to each of the brands, Mr. Start known for their slim cut simple tailoring, and Mr. Hare who's footwear (something of beauty) has made it's mark on an extremely competitive market.

After being welcomed into the lobby of the residence we toured through the ground floor rooms to view the collections.

Mr. Start has it's home in Shoreditch and that youthful out-going synonym was prevalent in their Spring line.

As well as this more casual concept there were the usual tailored exploits this time including some debonair dinner jackets, complete with dickie bows.

Displayed effortlessly at the end of the tour in the last room amid a cocktail bar and free flowing rum was Mr. Hare's newest footwear.

Some incredible loafers on display in particular and some wonderful leather patina's too. I really like the mix of leather and suede and it seems to give a great depth of colour and contrast. Loads to look forward to early next year.

A big thank you to Mr. Start for our invite and also to Mr. Hare who we managed to have a very brief chat with, we're looking forward to the next presentations in 6 month's time.

London Collections: Men - Recap

In case you hadn't noticed our attention has been diverted over the last weekend and start of this week with what is, in it's third installment, becoming a staple of the menswear calendar. I am of course referring to the London Collections: Men, which has morphed from a day long procession at the end of London Fashion Week to a fully fledged winged Phoenix spread across 3 days and taking in some stunning venues across London.

Myself and Tee had the pleasure of being invited to a number of shows this time round, and enjoyed our first experience of some front row action dissecting and discussing new collections from some of our favourite brands.

There were a number of highlights, Hardy Amies 'took it up the Gherkin' and showed us why they have been a stalwart of the Row since taking up residency in 1945, a typically classic collection with hints of military inspiration and weekend wardrobe. Richard James also impressed, another Row resident whose collaborations with Marks & Spencer in recent years have not gone un-noticed, with a show that would have been just as at home on the English Riviera as in Mayfair.

Oliver Spencer offered up some great relaxed tailoring and Hockney-esque paint splattered trouser combinations. A celebration of muted tones and fabrics were on display at Nicole Farhi which seemed a fitting reflection of the weather, though the atmosphere at the shows was anything but.

More tailoring triumphs at Gieves & Hawkes who went all 1970's on us, with browns, pinks and neutral tones. Some really stand out pieces from their collection including a fantastic safari jacket and seuded leather, belted motorcycle jacket. Of course lets not forget the unencumbered flag bearer of British style Hackett, a show of which we had the pleasure of viewing at Old Billingsgate, and have already drooled over here.

We were also particularly excited by the Mr Hare & Mr Start partnership which was the perfect amount of dashing designer dinner and swanky swinging sole all rolled into a tightly knit ball, and we'll have a closer look at those collections soon.

Last but certainly not least we were invited to take a look at Paul Costelloe's SS14 offerings and we were extremely pleased to see a (predominantly tailored) range compiled of stunning traditional fabrics such as tweed and heavier twill cottons with lots of open weaves to keep you cool. We've got photo's and more on that too coming very soon so keep your eyes peeled on the blog.

All said and done, a ridiculously enjoyable few days and a lot to look forward to hitting the racks and rails of our shops early next year. Here's to a great event, long may in continue to grow and showcase what British menswear manufacturers and designers have to offer.

So three cheers for LC:M, The British Fashion Council for putting on the events and it's ambassadors Dylan Jones, David Gandy, Dermot O'leary and Tinie Tempah!

Photo Source: Guardian via Elliott Morgan

E. Tautz SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Nicole Farhi SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Burberry Prorsum SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Christopher Raeburn SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Pringle of Scotland SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Paul Smith SS14 @ London Collections: Men

CP Company SS14 @ London Collections: Men

rag & bone SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Savile Row & St James's SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Hackett SS14 @ LC:M: A Closer Look

Here's a closer look at the Hackett SS14 show which I think I can safely say, for me has been the highlight of the London Collections: Men.

Hackett is quintessentially British and unabashedly proud, it embodies all that is eccentric about British style but in the most appealing fashion.

RAKE SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Hackett London SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Orlebar Brown SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Richard James SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Oliver Spencer SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Margaret Howell SS14 @ London Collections: Men

YMC SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Hardy Amies SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Agi & Sam SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Spencer Hart SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Gieves & Hawkes SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Mr Start & Mr Hare SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Hanky Folds: Preview

I've been thinking about the direction of the blog more recently as I often find myself leaning towards a more relaxed 1950/60's aesthetic in my spare time, although I have to adopt a formal dress for work. I know the suited look is not to everyone's taste but in one situation or another you will be called upon to wear one or at very least a jacket, and in this instance a hanky is a must.

It will probably seem an obvious idea and lead you to believe me of little imagination but I something that I see all too much of is people making a hash of an adornment which should be subtle or complimentary and merely accentuate the bolder details of an outfit.

I wanted to offer something by way of advice, a guide or tips, something with continuity that would be consistent every week or two in addition to all the usual bits and bobs, and I'm hoping that this can act as a barometer for inspiration and help to aid decisions when picking accessories.

Since the introduction of programs like Mad Men (I think that is its first mention on the blog, which for 9 month's work is pretty good, no? sorry it was gonna crop up somewhere) and The Hour the pocket square or handkerchief ,or pochette as the #menswear mob like to call it, has found its way back in to the fabric of our formal attire.

Traditionally handkerchiefs would be fashioned from left over material when having a shirt made. Now they have become a statement and one at which companies such as Drakes excel, offering beautiful intricate patterns and printed designs.

Starting with a basic flat fold and for as long as I can think of varied techniques I will post guides to getting a good lie and how to get the best from your square.

If you have any requests or specific folds that you'd like me to cover please get in touch, we're more than happy to lend a hand.

Onia SS13 (Swim Deep)

What a fucking truly nice change in the weather this week! Finally that great ball of fire is super-heating our patch of the planet.

With this I am expecting the lido's and swimming baths around London and up and down the country for that matter will be filling up this weekend and you don't want to be caught in a naughty pair of budgie smugglers poolside.

Onia are a men's swimwear company out of NYC and these guys are making some serious waves (gold that one) to compete with the likes of Orlebar Brown at the top of the pile in the trunk stakes.

Their shorts are made in 6 different fittings all varied in length so there's no excuse for trying to squeeze yourself into a pair of hotpants.

SS13 here.

Source: Men's Reverie

Sockers!

At the start of April the weather seemed to be headed in the right direction and a few sun soaked days clearly went to my swede. I'd written a piece for Menswear Style on going sock-less seeing as the temperatures were on the up, and suddenly realised what a contentious point this seemed to be for so many.

It turns out a generous proportion of you gents have a problem with the idea of not cocooning your feet, and I can understand that for the hygiene conscious among you it may not be appealing. Ever the problem solver, hoping to please all and sundry I set out to find you chaps a resolve.

I remember a few years ago The Satorialist ('ALL HAIL SCOTT SCHUMAN!') was in a similar quandary trying to find a solution to the problems that arise from donning your shoes sans socks when things really do start to heat up. If or when your feet start sweating you can soon find yourself in all sorts of pickles and a leather shoe can make for a pretty torturing incumbency when you add some chafing to the mix.

Schuman was dissatisfied with the 'trainer sock' and didn't feel it worked for a shoe as the fitting was finished just below the ankle.

Well wouldn't you just know it! Uniqlo have the answer. I've never noticed them before, and I'm pretty sure they're new to the product line, the solution to the socks/no socks debate, a very low rise sock that you can wear with loafers and still bear your ankles.

Unfortunately these lifesavers aren't available online so you'll need to visit a store to make a purchase. Get ready for summer!

RPM WEST: Denim Differently

I've noticed an increasing number of Kickstarter projects recently aimed at targeting a proportion of the menswear market that isn't catered for. Trouble is, if the garment isn't already in production chances are no-one gives a flying one.

What I have found more interesting are the projects that could potentially change the way we shop.

Shopping online can be a tricky prospect for some. I have a bunch of close friends who simply won't trust an online store to be completely safe. Truth is that it does have it's pitfalls, but the ease in convenience is a godsend for most 9-5ers who would rather not spend their weekends trudging round shopping malls or up and down high streets.

RPM WEST are a clothing supply company based in the US who source selvage denim from Japan and hope to provide the best quality products at a fair price. The 13 oz weight indigo denim from Japanese suppliers is constructed in San Francisco were the final touches are added including a locally made leather patch.

The jeans come is two fits, New Classic (a modern straight fit) and Slim Straight which does what it says on the tin. They are clean cut, classic and uncomplicated in design with emphasis on the materials and craftsmanship.

However, the trump card that RPM WEST are holding is in its aim to supply customers with an at-home try-on service allowing them to order 3 pairs of jeans, work out the best fitting, and send back the 2 pairs that are not right for you. All of the above comes at the princely sum of $95 and for an additional $15 they can ship to Europe.

The idea seems to have struck a chord. Within 48 hours of taking to Kickstarter they'd achieved their goal of $20,000. Within a week they reached their stretch goal of $50,000 and now they've secured over $80,000 in funding with almost 2 weeks to go.

The idea is that of Manuel Rappard (an ex Google employee) who gratefully contacted me and asked if I would cover their story. It does seem like a fantastic idea and I wish the company the best of luck. Here's hoping this inspires a change to online shopping for the better.

If you want to get behind the project you can back them and order a pair of jeans for yourself here.