The State of British Denim

Unfortunately for us Brit's the consumerist nature of the clothing industry demands so heavily that props usually go to those that are productive at the lowest cost to us. In a small land mass like ours it's very difficult for companies to compete and so our industry has hard fought for it's custom. What we do do very well is produce quality, in however small a number that may be.

Denim is a hardy investment, it's versatility and value testament to it's popularity. From it's formative years as a working mans overall the cotton twill has been a feature of men's fashions. What can be said for those who buy not to keep up with trends but to carefully procure an item to add to a considered wardrobe?

After I covered the RPMWEST kickstarter a while back I started to look around for British denim brands. All I knew before I set out was that this would likely be a diminished group, what I didn't realise is quite how short that list would be.

At present that amounts to two(2) British companies solely specialising in denim, Hiut Denim in Cardigan, Wales and Fallow in London. Hackney in fact, Dalston to be precise, which is becoming a flag bearer for emerging creative industry.

One other Tender, the oldest of the new breed of clothiers to enter the vast denim market, have been around since 2009 yet they have nearly 4 times as many stockists in Japan as on home soil.

What is incredible is that these brands are infant, only 7 years of production between them, but the endeavor and story behind each to create denim that will be loved and lived in, is palpable.

There are other British menswear brands out there, Albam & Jigsaw for example, producing denim lines in their collections but the rarity of an equivalent to the likes of Levi, Edwin, Evisu and the many other American and Japanese brands focused on denim, is startling.

It's always a heartening though to think that you are paying back directly to the British economy and helping small business to grow, so next time you're investing in some true blue, why not give these guys are look before you put paid to those giants of the jean juggernaut.

Fallow Denim:

Hiut Denim:

Tender Denim:

You can find Tender at Superdenim online, and both Hiut & Fallow have their own web shops.

If you know any British denim brands that I've missed out, get in touch at esteewhyele@gmail.com or on Twitter @esteewhyele

Since posting I was contacted by @scott_f_simpson and introduced to Dawson Denim established in 2012 they produce a number of denim products, including aprons and bags from their workshop in Brighton using Japanese Red line Selvage denim. They also offer an neat service by way of a log book which entitles the customer to repair of any damage to the garment in the first 6 months for free.

Dawson will also be showing at the Best of Britannia exhibition in Clerkenwell, London on the 4th and 5th October.

Photo Source: Fallow, Hiut, Tender.

RPM WEST: Denim Differently

I've noticed an increasing number of Kickstarter projects recently aimed at targeting a proportion of the menswear market that isn't catered for. Trouble is, if the garment isn't already in production chances are no-one gives a flying one.

What I have found more interesting are the projects that could potentially change the way we shop.

Shopping online can be a tricky prospect for some. I have a bunch of close friends who simply won't trust an online store to be completely safe. Truth is that it does have it's pitfalls, but the ease in convenience is a godsend for most 9-5ers who would rather not spend their weekends trudging round shopping malls or up and down high streets.

RPM WEST are a clothing supply company based in the US who source selvage denim from Japan and hope to provide the best quality products at a fair price. The 13 oz weight indigo denim from Japanese suppliers is constructed in San Francisco were the final touches are added including a locally made leather patch.

The jeans come is two fits, New Classic (a modern straight fit) and Slim Straight which does what it says on the tin. They are clean cut, classic and uncomplicated in design with emphasis on the materials and craftsmanship.

However, the trump card that RPM WEST are holding is in its aim to supply customers with an at-home try-on service allowing them to order 3 pairs of jeans, work out the best fitting, and send back the 2 pairs that are not right for you. All of the above comes at the princely sum of $95 and for an additional $15 they can ship to Europe.

The idea seems to have struck a chord. Within 48 hours of taking to Kickstarter they'd achieved their goal of $20,000. Within a week they reached their stretch goal of $50,000 and now they've secured over $80,000 in funding with almost 2 weeks to go.

The idea is that of Manuel Rappard (an ex Google employee) who gratefully contacted me and asked if I would cover their story. It does seem like a fantastic idea and I wish the company the best of luck. Here's hoping this inspires a change to online shopping for the better.

If you want to get behind the project you can back them and order a pair of jeans for yourself here.