Francli Craftwear

Over 10 days from the 14th-22nd September The London Design Festival  took over venues across the City to exhibit industrious talent from the broad British design pool. From architects and housing schemes, to sculptors and joiners, tailors, seamstress' and all the in-betweens there was something for everyone.

Obviously the word 'design' is true of many professions and this provided an eclectic mix of varied platforms.

My attentions were focused on the textiles side of the exhibitions, and in particular the things that were not typical or not aimed at a mass market, it's here that you tend to find the more cherished and adored designs, enough to curtail a wanton desire for an item. Something that has clearly been deliberated and considered to the n'th degree.

Clothing brands are born daily and usually based on non-specific requirements to provide products that will be aimed at a wide and varied range of consumer. Now and then however someone applies their talents to create a product from a necessity, a need and a function specific to them, the fact that such a necessity would resonate with others is second fiddle to the idea. These necessities can be sustainability, or simply not being satisfied with what is already available and it's in these instances where people are not galvanizing a product to drain it for all its worth that the public can better appreciate the creation.

Francli stood out because these two designers, Franki Basely and Ali Goodman, started making items for close friends and other people in their profession which have been so lauded the pair have gone on to receive requests from further afield.

The story of what came to be, started out as trips of exploration along England's west coast and has since grown into a shared ideal and lifestyle. It shows that with enough endeavor and will to create, people will take note if that thought is clear in what you do.

What's most admirable is that the girls forage and use discarded materials to create their workwear which marry's a love of vintage and reclaimed clothing as well as sustainable production. In our considerably damaged environment it's nice to know that one souls unloved waste is their treasure.

Below are a selection of shots from past projects:

Also, thank you to my neighbour for bringing Huck magazine to my attention who did a feature on Francli in the run up to Design Week here.

Marks & Spencers: Best of British

All I seem to be doing at the moment is rambling on about British this that and the other, but it is a sign of our times. There is an inextricable shift towards being a more self sufficient country in terms of produce, better supporting our retailers for a more sustainable future and sustaining our historic mills and factories.

Tomorrow sees Marks and Spencers' bring their Best of British range to selected stores (Kensington and Marble Arch in London, Bluewater in Kent, Edinburgh and Camberley in Surrey) and online. This is a big push by a huge British retailer to promote home grown manufacturing.

The premium range, made entirely in the UK will include fabrics from Abraham Moon, Albert Brown, Holland & Sherry, Clissold, Todd & Duncan and a long standing partner Harris Tweed. 

They have also enlisted the help of Joseph Cheaney & Sons with the appropriate footwear to accompany the line.

A preview of the 40 piece range was on show at the London Collections: Men back in June and has captured the attention of the media and men's style magazines ever since. 

Hopefully this will be a continued project for M&S and we will see the range grow over the next few seasons.

Below are some of the best bits from the collection out tomorrow:

Photo Source: Marks and Spencer

TRiCKETT Sportswear

What if now and then we chose to forego the usual sportswear brands and plump for a team a little closer to home here in the UK?

Recent revived interest in British production and manufacturing, which could be attributed to the state of British industry brought on by the recessionary economy, has created a drive among investors to breathe new life or even resuscitate heritage brands.

TRiCKETT is the brainchild of Lancashire born Iain Trickett and is a platform for collaboration and retail, in essence a site dedicated to the sale of things that he loves.

As well as collaborating with US brand Ebbets Field Flannels on their wonderful baseball caps, TRiCKETT produce a number of pieces of their own right here in the UK made from British cotton and woven in Lancashire.

The collection is heavily inspired by baseball styles which are clear in the composition of wares such as their 3/4 length tee the 'Mays' shirt (in honour of Willie Mays who holds the record for the most appearances in Major League Baseball All Star games with 24) and of course the caps, but also references footballing memories with the 'Washington' scarf and 'Finney' socks (in honour of Lancashire born Sir Tom Finney).

This season they have also teamed up with Walsh Sports, on an exclusive collaboration and limited run to produce trainers in their trademark navy grey and white colours. You can get these kicks here whilst stocks last.

When I contacted TRiCKETT and asked if they had press shots of their collections that I could feature I got an interesting response, rather than product images Iain replied by telling me that he was not of that mind, that the product images do not reflect what we are is trying to convey and what we hope to inspire, so instead he sent me the images that inspire him and the brand and their creation and images that restore memories of childhood adoration for the spectacle of sport and the legendary athletes of days past.

Hopefully these images will conjure the same memories for you, the squeak of rubber on the court, the elation of the crowd as Alan Shearer hits the back of the net on his way to a record 34 goals for Blackburn Rovers circa 1995, the sweet spot of the bat hitting ball, the commentator 'Mays up to bat, aaaaaannnnnd... 'THWACK' he knocks it out of the park!'

The State of British Denim

Unfortunately for us Brit's the consumerist nature of the clothing industry demands so heavily that props usually go to those that are productive at the lowest cost to us. In a small land mass like ours it's very difficult for companies to compete and so our industry has hard fought for it's custom. What we do do very well is produce quality, in however small a number that may be.

Denim is a hardy investment, it's versatility and value testament to it's popularity. From it's formative years as a working mans overall the cotton twill has been a feature of men's fashions. What can be said for those who buy not to keep up with trends but to carefully procure an item to add to a considered wardrobe?

After I covered the RPMWEST kickstarter a while back I started to look around for British denim brands. All I knew before I set out was that this would likely be a diminished group, what I didn't realise is quite how short that list would be.

At present that amounts to two(2) British companies solely specialising in denim, Hiut Denim in Cardigan, Wales and Fallow in London. Hackney in fact, Dalston to be precise, which is becoming a flag bearer for emerging creative industry.

One other Tender, the oldest of the new breed of clothiers to enter the vast denim market, have been around since 2009 yet they have nearly 4 times as many stockists in Japan as on home soil.

What is incredible is that these brands are infant, only 7 years of production between them, but the endeavor and story behind each to create denim that will be loved and lived in, is palpable.

There are other British menswear brands out there, Albam & Jigsaw for example, producing denim lines in their collections but the rarity of an equivalent to the likes of Levi, Edwin, Evisu and the many other American and Japanese brands focused on denim, is startling.

It's always a heartening though to think that you are paying back directly to the British economy and helping small business to grow, so next time you're investing in some true blue, why not give these guys are look before you put paid to those giants of the jean juggernaut.

Fallow Denim:

Hiut Denim:

Tender Denim:

You can find Tender at Superdenim online, and both Hiut & Fallow have their own web shops.

If you know any British denim brands that I've missed out, get in touch at esteewhyele@gmail.com or on Twitter @esteewhyele

Since posting I was contacted by @scott_f_simpson and introduced to Dawson Denim established in 2012 they produce a number of denim products, including aprons and bags from their workshop in Brighton using Japanese Red line Selvage denim. They also offer an neat service by way of a log book which entitles the customer to repair of any damage to the garment in the first 6 months for free.

Dawson will also be showing at the Best of Britannia exhibition in Clerkenwell, London on the 4th and 5th October.

Photo Source: Fallow, Hiut, Tender.

Naissance AW13

Naissance is the baby of Takashi Kumagai, a Japanese photographer with plenty of fingers in pies. In his native Japan he is also a renowned stylist and branding expert as well as having turned his hand to shop design for New York based brand Saturdays Surf NYC, who collaborated with Gap back in 2012 as part of their young American designers initiative.

Like a lot of Japanese brands there is a heavy Americana influence and for AW the amalgamation of heavy fabrics, tailored outerwear and workwear inspired pieces.

The thing I enjoy about these brands is that there is a simplistic relaxed demeanor to their composition. The wearer looks comfortable and un-fussed yet you can see that careful consideration has been made in each choice.

The workwear aesthetic will be big again this winter and the introduction of tailored cords and flannel trousers will accompany the usual selvedge denim.

Photo Source: Men's Reverie

Bill Amberg & the Next Generation of Artisan

You would be forgiven for not having heard the name Bill Amberg before, nor having much notion of the brand but that is not to say you may be inexperienced in his work, his influences and collaborations span a wide spectrum of both menswear and womenswear, working most notably with Paul Smith from '86 - '93 and Dunhill for 2 years from 2004. He has designed leather paneled interiors for iconic buildings and super-yachts as well as floors for retailers across the world. His 'Rocket' bag design has been admitted to the V&A museum as a 'design classic' and the craftsman has garnered a dedicated following and an elite client base citing Jude Law and Jarvis Cocker as patrons.

What became apparent upon my visit to the perfectly proportioned split level shop, tucked away behind Shepherds Market in Mayfair was that his passion and vision for his craft is continuing to grow with a new breed of co-contributors.

To exhibit a collection of one off commissions by 2nd year students at London College of Fashion on a wet and drizzly Thursday evening would appeal to few. I, as an admirer of the leather purveyors works, considered the invite an opportunity to obsess over the minute details of some beautifully made carry's and to study some exciting designs from young emerging talent.

Due to the state of central London's roads at present and the incredible amount of redevelopment in the City I was late to my destination, after an hour and a half staring at the back end of a bus however I managed to snag a parking spot and made may way down to the shop. Fortunately I was greeted by Chris who was just as enthusiastic about what was on show and despite being in the process of tidying up beckoned me in to take a gander.

The pieces on show were incredible, the materials exquisite and each carved out their own individual icon for a recognisable style.

Ill prepared though I was, without my trusty camera I was forced to lean on my phone, which for all its misgivings saved my bacon.

Below are some images of my favorite designs from the LCF students:

I also had a chat with Chris about Bill Amberg's AW13 collection and some newer designs coming through for SS next year. The photos below are for the current season and the 'Hunter' backpack and 'Medicine' holdall in particular are two items I was almost swayed to shell out on there and then.

The shop in Shepherds Market will soon see an interesting makeover with some interesting additions to the retail experience so keep your eyes peeled for that.

Ways to Wear: Oxfords

At the beginning of last month I was contacted by Samuel Windsor and introduced to their Blog Network, which lists the best menswear blogs on the web, moreover aims to compile all these guides in to handy directory for your delectation.

You've probably come across Sam Windsor on your travels and if not I can only assume it's because you don't work in an office and are not privy to their alleviation of strain on a bank balance dented by the expense of new shoes every 6 months. For a long time these guys have been offering affordable footwear to those who have searched and found. My first experience with the brand was a fair few years ago, possibly 2009, when I invested in a pair of dark brown suede chukka boots to kick start a more classically inspired shoe collection due to my developing tastes. Since then I spread the news to various family members and friends who have since gone on to make their own purchases.

The chukka boots are still going strong, if you're interested, and half my old man's wardrobe is now down to Samuel Windsor. Creatures of habit!

I started conversing with Dan at SW discussing ideas for the blog network and a contribution towards their social media footprint. My first inclination was a guide to making the most of your shoes, focusing on the versatility of certain styles. I then dug deeper and since the influence of the #menswear movement I think most people are aware of brogues and loafers and how they are just as at home at the bottom of a tapered suit trouser leg as they are neath a turned selvedge denim hem. I wanted to turn our attentions to a more overlooked style and I settled on plain oxfords.

Oxford's are typically characterised by eyelets sewn under the vamp (the part of the shoe starting behind the toes extending to the back of the foot) and a cap-toe. This is to say they are not a wholecut or derby. Although brogues are a derivative of this style it is the traditional arrangement, that we recognise as an oxford shoe today, that my collective wisdom is aimed at.

My view is that we mostly see these as a particularly straight-laced shoe for business and very formal dress, however you may be surprised to hear that this shoe was born out of rebellion by students at Oxford university in the 1800's against knee and ankle high boots. The veritable punk of modern footwear!

There's no questioning the simplicity of the cut and pairing a black cap-toe oxford with a clean cut navy or grey suit is a winner every time, but if you want to vary the occasion of these staples why not try introducing some tailored khaki or military green cotton trousers, a plain white t-shirt and bomber or denim jacket. The key to taking these shoes out of their formal setting for me is the trousers, stick to a composition with a crease and tailored aesthetic and you will find them just a suitable for a more casual setting. Steer clear of blazer's and suit jackets up top and take inspiration from 1940's service dress. Below are a few examples I've pick out from the net to show just how versatile these shoes can be:

In retrospect of this guide one lucky reader will become the owner of a classic pair of black oxfords kindly provided by the good people at Samuel Windsor. To be in with a chance all you have to do is subscribe to esteewhyele.blogspot.co.uk via the handy widget at the top right hand margin of the screen and follow @esteewhyele and @samuelwindsor on Twitter. Tweet us #STYLExSW when you're done and you'll be entered in to the draw at the end of the month.

A winner will be picked at random from the entrants on the 30th September and contacted to make arrangements for the delivery of their prize.

Good luck!

Photo Source: TheSartorialist, Tumblr & Tommy Ton via GQ via IQ Menswear