Bill Amberg & the Next Generation of Artisan

You would be forgiven for not having heard the name Bill Amberg before, nor having much notion of the brand but that is not to say you may be inexperienced in his work, his influences and collaborations span a wide spectrum of both menswear and womenswear, working most notably with Paul Smith from '86 - '93 and Dunhill for 2 years from 2004. He has designed leather paneled interiors for iconic buildings and super-yachts as well as floors for retailers across the world. His 'Rocket' bag design has been admitted to the V&A museum as a 'design classic' and the craftsman has garnered a dedicated following and an elite client base citing Jude Law and Jarvis Cocker as patrons.

What became apparent upon my visit to the perfectly proportioned split level shop, tucked away behind Shepherds Market in Mayfair was that his passion and vision for his craft is continuing to grow with a new breed of co-contributors.

To exhibit a collection of one off commissions by 2nd year students at London College of Fashion on a wet and drizzly Thursday evening would appeal to few. I, as an admirer of the leather purveyors works, considered the invite an opportunity to obsess over the minute details of some beautifully made carry's and to study some exciting designs from young emerging talent.

Due to the state of central London's roads at present and the incredible amount of redevelopment in the City I was late to my destination, after an hour and a half staring at the back end of a bus however I managed to snag a parking spot and made may way down to the shop. Fortunately I was greeted by Chris who was just as enthusiastic about what was on show and despite being in the process of tidying up beckoned me in to take a gander.

The pieces on show were incredible, the materials exquisite and each carved out their own individual icon for a recognisable style.

Ill prepared though I was, without my trusty camera I was forced to lean on my phone, which for all its misgivings saved my bacon.

Below are some images of my favorite designs from the LCF students:

I also had a chat with Chris about Bill Amberg's AW13 collection and some newer designs coming through for SS next year. The photos below are for the current season and the 'Hunter' backpack and 'Medicine' holdall in particular are two items I was almost swayed to shell out on there and then.

The shop in Shepherds Market will soon see an interesting makeover with some interesting additions to the retail experience so keep your eyes peeled for that.

Ways to Wear: Oxfords

At the beginning of last month I was contacted by Samuel Windsor and introduced to their Blog Network, which lists the best menswear blogs on the web, moreover aims to compile all these guides in to handy directory for your delectation.

You've probably come across Sam Windsor on your travels and if not I can only assume it's because you don't work in an office and are not privy to their alleviation of strain on a bank balance dented by the expense of new shoes every 6 months. For a long time these guys have been offering affordable footwear to those who have searched and found. My first experience with the brand was a fair few years ago, possibly 2009, when I invested in a pair of dark brown suede chukka boots to kick start a more classically inspired shoe collection due to my developing tastes. Since then I spread the news to various family members and friends who have since gone on to make their own purchases.

The chukka boots are still going strong, if you're interested, and half my old man's wardrobe is now down to Samuel Windsor. Creatures of habit!

I started conversing with Dan at SW discussing ideas for the blog network and a contribution towards their social media footprint. My first inclination was a guide to making the most of your shoes, focusing on the versatility of certain styles. I then dug deeper and since the influence of the #menswear movement I think most people are aware of brogues and loafers and how they are just as at home at the bottom of a tapered suit trouser leg as they are neath a turned selvedge denim hem. I wanted to turn our attentions to a more overlooked style and I settled on plain oxfords.

Oxford's are typically characterised by eyelets sewn under the vamp (the part of the shoe starting behind the toes extending to the back of the foot) and a cap-toe. This is to say they are not a wholecut or derby. Although brogues are a derivative of this style it is the traditional arrangement, that we recognise as an oxford shoe today, that my collective wisdom is aimed at.

My view is that we mostly see these as a particularly straight-laced shoe for business and very formal dress, however you may be surprised to hear that this shoe was born out of rebellion by students at Oxford university in the 1800's against knee and ankle high boots. The veritable punk of modern footwear!

There's no questioning the simplicity of the cut and pairing a black cap-toe oxford with a clean cut navy or grey suit is a winner every time, but if you want to vary the occasion of these staples why not try introducing some tailored khaki or military green cotton trousers, a plain white t-shirt and bomber or denim jacket. The key to taking these shoes out of their formal setting for me is the trousers, stick to a composition with a crease and tailored aesthetic and you will find them just a suitable for a more casual setting. Steer clear of blazer's and suit jackets up top and take inspiration from 1940's service dress. Below are a few examples I've pick out from the net to show just how versatile these shoes can be:

In retrospect of this guide one lucky reader will become the owner of a classic pair of black oxfords kindly provided by the good people at Samuel Windsor. To be in with a chance all you have to do is subscribe to esteewhyele.blogspot.co.uk via the handy widget at the top right hand margin of the screen and follow @esteewhyele and @samuelwindsor on Twitter. Tweet us #STYLExSW when you're done and you'll be entered in to the draw at the end of the month.

A winner will be picked at random from the entrants on the 30th September and contacted to make arrangements for the delivery of their prize.

Good luck!

Photo Source: TheSartorialist, Tumblr & Tommy Ton via GQ via IQ Menswear

Woolrich Woolen Mills AW13

Back in 2006, building on the success of his Engineered Garments label, Daiki Suzuki set about bringing back an American manufacturing tradition to menswear. A wool-rich town and community was built around the activities of the mill.

The original Woolen Mill was founded in Pennsylvania in 1830. Working with original fabrics and patterns Daiki developed the brands first collection for WP Lavori (a high end men's clothiers) in Corsi, Bologna.

Since 2010, with Mark McNairy in the driver's seat, the brand has thrived and is revered for its dedication to outerwear Americana.

The garments are made to tested specifications with hidden elbow patches and re-enforced stitching for durability.

Synonymous with strong plaids and wonderful fabrics the excitement always builds for Autumn/Winter collections from these guys and this season is a strong effort.

Photo Source: Men's Reverie

Brand Watch: H&B London

Whether you like your shirt with single or double cuffs there is no denying that a pair of cufflinks denote a sense of an era gone by, the 1920's and before, when gentleman were gentleman and the debonair aristocrats of the country would head to the home counties for the weekend to get dosed up on spirited alcohol, cutting a rug into the small hours.

These days the popularity of double cuff shirts is usually retained for a business environment, but what of the humble cufflink?

I'm not a big jewellery fan even despite the recent popularity of men's beads and bracelets I'm usually only wearing a watch in addition to the typical garb. I like to keep adornments simple with clean lines and the same can be said for my shirt cuffs. I'll go for something silver in colour to compliment my watch and avoid anything too shiny. I've always found it fairly difficult to meet my requirements and consequently I only own only two pairs of cufflink to date.

When I spoke with Stephen Brister of H&B London I found a kinship. Someone who had been disappointed by the lack of quality and been thrust into making a change. It was a personal concession that forged the way for Stephen after he was left searching a lack-lustre market for a suitable accompaniment to a important social date. A fruitless forage meant that he had to enlist the services of a family member to lend a hand. This experience left a lasting impression and from this the inception of H&B was to come.

H&B aim to create something individual to be treasured, like a heirloom passed down from generations. Their artisans craft from the finest materials using vested techniques perfected over the ages. This doting and time devoted has helped to realise an incredibly simple yet handsome aesthetic.

Stephen was kind enough to give me the chance to try, first hand, what he was putting down. Given the choice I picked a geometric shape set of cufflinks, my consideration was based on what I was hoping would be complimentary lines to edges and hems in my more tailored wear. The links themselves have a brushed alloy like finish and the tough angular finishes make them a fitting addition to even busy shirt patterns.

After a week of solid wear I was clamouring over my shirts for more double cuff options to give me another excuse to take these for a spin. Now my previously unloved shirts are seeing the light of day once more and all thanks to H&B.

I was incredibly pleased with my choice and couldn't recommend more heavily checking these guys out if you find yourself in a predicament for formal attire. As well as cufflinks you will also find an accomplished range of leather goods. You can view the full collection at handblondon.com.

Sebago 'Made in the USA'

A few weeks back, the 19th July to be precise, Michigan based footwear company Sebago had a preview showing of their SS14 collection at the London flagship store on Regent Street.

Unfortunately due to personal commitments I couldn't attend but from what I hear the event went swimmingly, with champagne and oysters laid on for the do.

Sebago are a brand that I have overlooked this summer, not for any particular reason it just happened that way. Probably most notable for their 'boat-shoes' (I've put that term in inverted commas because it needs revision, yet the alternative is deck-shoe which adds 50 years to the perceived age of its wearer. Can we think of a less pretentious name?). The rest of their range had almost passed me by, but thanks to the wonderful world of Instagram I noticed a friend sporting some might fine looking green leather penny loafers which deserved a bit more attention.

I've always loved penny loafers, I love the different era's and stylish traditions they encompass. The preppy/ivy league definition and the mod culture which continue to inspire. Unfortunately because of my diminutive stature and stocky build there was only a very brief period of my life in which I was slim enough to even consider being a mod, and that faded rather rapidly to my dismay. All is not lost mind, and penny loafers are probably the most reliable pair of shoes I own to accompany shorts in summer.

This summer Sebago have introduced a 'Made in the USA' moniker to the production line. This collection is hand sewn in Maine and constructed by one of the oldest tanneries in North America, the Horween leather tanners. Their cow and horse hides are renowned for durability and comfort lasting and hard wear.

For a jazzy turn they've injected some colour and 'hey presto' a fully fledged summer swathe.

 

Patagonia: Legacy Collection

This season is a landmark one for Patagonia, a Ruby year, a 40th anniversary. For those preceding decades the brand has created wares and tools of trade for almost all wilderness pursuit, from climbing and fly fishing to surfing and recreation on the piste.

The company remains family owned and since it's coming together in the 1960's the ambition, to provide the best product at the least detriment to the environment and in turn use business to inspire and assist solutions to environmental crisis, is a mantra still etched fervently into the creative minds at its helm.

Their legacy collection reflects on the forty years past and re-imagines classic pieces with the use of new materials and techniques.

Personally I find it astounding that an isolated brand such as this, being fairly specific in it's aspiration and market, with an organic message of sustainable material and production manages to stay so relevant with so many different walks of consumer.

These new classics include, a GORE-TEX constructed cagoule, cut with a fuller shape to give the best possible shelter from the elements. Woolen bombachas or pants, a hybrid of traditional workers trousers with an adaptable three button cuff to tighten around the calf. A Re-incarnation of the traditional 'summit' backpack with plenty of room for a full family picnic or an itinerary to complete an ascent of a considerable mole hill. These items will be available in Patagonia stores in the US and their Covent Garden shop in London from September 1st. You'll also find them across selected stockists in Europe, or online at Patagonia.com.

Here you can view the rest of the collection, the original design on the left hand side and the revised design to the right of the photo. Particular reference to that devilish body warmer which is killing it!

Photo Source: A Continuous Lean

Brand Watch: Okun

After recently hyping Onia and the Spring/Summer swimwear it got me to thinking of what we Brits had to offer and what interesting brands were out there causing a stir on our rock. At my first port of call a brief scan of our Twitter followers revealed a plethora of such companies and immediately one in particular stood out.

Back in January of this year at the second installment of London Collections: Men in addition to the wide coverage of the shows, many a snazzy looking industry head were caught on the streets of London heading to and from shows and were snapped by the flocks of magazine photographers and bloggers all eager to capture some 'street style'.

From all of the pictures paraded following the event none seemed to be more prevalent than a bearded chap in a particularly exotic suit. It transpired that the suit in question was the makings of traditional African prints and since then the market has been baying for more of the same.

Okun, a swimwear brand, are running with the ball at the moment and they use a multitude of African print for their wares. The brands ethos is a care-free confidence, mixing contemporary print with classic design. Okun is a translation for the 'The Ocean' and a name decidedly befitting of such a whole hearted concept.

Like all the best swimwear brands they offer a range of lengths to their trunks as well as varied fittings like drawstring and button fastenings.

The prints are incredibly vibrant and I couldn't think of anything more congruent to a dip in the deep blue.

Here a just a few snapshots of their range, but for more you can visit their shop here.