Spencer Hart SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Gieves & Hawkes SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Mr Start & Mr Hare SS14 @ London Collections: Men

Hanky Folds: Preview

I've been thinking about the direction of the blog more recently as I often find myself leaning towards a more relaxed 1950/60's aesthetic in my spare time, although I have to adopt a formal dress for work. I know the suited look is not to everyone's taste but in one situation or another you will be called upon to wear one or at very least a jacket, and in this instance a hanky is a must.

It will probably seem an obvious idea and lead you to believe me of little imagination but I something that I see all too much of is people making a hash of an adornment which should be subtle or complimentary and merely accentuate the bolder details of an outfit.

I wanted to offer something by way of advice, a guide or tips, something with continuity that would be consistent every week or two in addition to all the usual bits and bobs, and I'm hoping that this can act as a barometer for inspiration and help to aid decisions when picking accessories.

Since the introduction of programs like Mad Men (I think that is its first mention on the blog, which for 9 month's work is pretty good, no? sorry it was gonna crop up somewhere) and The Hour the pocket square or handkerchief ,or pochette as the #menswear mob like to call it, has found its way back in to the fabric of our formal attire.

Traditionally handkerchiefs would be fashioned from left over material when having a shirt made. Now they have become a statement and one at which companies such as Drakes excel, offering beautiful intricate patterns and printed designs.

Starting with a basic flat fold and for as long as I can think of varied techniques I will post guides to getting a good lie and how to get the best from your square.

If you have any requests or specific folds that you'd like me to cover please get in touch, we're more than happy to lend a hand.

Onia SS13 (Swim Deep)

What a fucking truly nice change in the weather this week! Finally that great ball of fire is super-heating our patch of the planet.

With this I am expecting the lido's and swimming baths around London and up and down the country for that matter will be filling up this weekend and you don't want to be caught in a naughty pair of budgie smugglers poolside.

Onia are a men's swimwear company out of NYC and these guys are making some serious waves (gold that one) to compete with the likes of Orlebar Brown at the top of the pile in the trunk stakes.

Their shorts are made in 6 different fittings all varied in length so there's no excuse for trying to squeeze yourself into a pair of hotpants.

SS13 here.

Source: Men's Reverie

Sockers!

At the start of April the weather seemed to be headed in the right direction and a few sun soaked days clearly went to my swede. I'd written a piece for Menswear Style on going sock-less seeing as the temperatures were on the up, and suddenly realised what a contentious point this seemed to be for so many.

It turns out a generous proportion of you gents have a problem with the idea of not cocooning your feet, and I can understand that for the hygiene conscious among you it may not be appealing. Ever the problem solver, hoping to please all and sundry I set out to find you chaps a resolve.

I remember a few years ago The Satorialist ('ALL HAIL SCOTT SCHUMAN!') was in a similar quandary trying to find a solution to the problems that arise from donning your shoes sans socks when things really do start to heat up. If or when your feet start sweating you can soon find yourself in all sorts of pickles and a leather shoe can make for a pretty torturing incumbency when you add some chafing to the mix.

Schuman was dissatisfied with the 'trainer sock' and didn't feel it worked for a shoe as the fitting was finished just below the ankle.

Well wouldn't you just know it! Uniqlo have the answer. I've never noticed them before, and I'm pretty sure they're new to the product line, the solution to the socks/no socks debate, a very low rise sock that you can wear with loafers and still bear your ankles.

Unfortunately these lifesavers aren't available online so you'll need to visit a store to make a purchase. Get ready for summer!

RPM WEST: Denim Differently

I've noticed an increasing number of Kickstarter projects recently aimed at targeting a proportion of the menswear market that isn't catered for. Trouble is, if the garment isn't already in production chances are no-one gives a flying one.

What I have found more interesting are the projects that could potentially change the way we shop.

Shopping online can be a tricky prospect for some. I have a bunch of close friends who simply won't trust an online store to be completely safe. Truth is that it does have it's pitfalls, but the ease in convenience is a godsend for most 9-5ers who would rather not spend their weekends trudging round shopping malls or up and down high streets.

RPM WEST are a clothing supply company based in the US who source selvage denim from Japan and hope to provide the best quality products at a fair price. The 13 oz weight indigo denim from Japanese suppliers is constructed in San Francisco were the final touches are added including a locally made leather patch.

The jeans come is two fits, New Classic (a modern straight fit) and Slim Straight which does what it says on the tin. They are clean cut, classic and uncomplicated in design with emphasis on the materials and craftsmanship.

However, the trump card that RPM WEST are holding is in its aim to supply customers with an at-home try-on service allowing them to order 3 pairs of jeans, work out the best fitting, and send back the 2 pairs that are not right for you. All of the above comes at the princely sum of $95 and for an additional $15 they can ship to Europe.

The idea seems to have struck a chord. Within 48 hours of taking to Kickstarter they'd achieved their goal of $20,000. Within a week they reached their stretch goal of $50,000 and now they've secured over $80,000 in funding with almost 2 weeks to go.

The idea is that of Manuel Rappard (an ex Google employee) who gratefully contacted me and asked if I would cover their story. It does seem like a fantastic idea and I wish the company the best of luck. Here's hoping this inspires a change to online shopping for the better.

If you want to get behind the project you can back them and order a pair of jeans for yourself here.